Tuesday, March 31, 2009
I rode my motorcycle to Peru
We also forgot to mention that we have been south of the equator since Quito, Ecuador. Today we made our way back to the ocean and are staying in a little surf town called Mancora. It´s a little touristy for our tastes but it will do for the night. Its pretty funny that Clay and I have become picky travelers. Any sight of too many other white people or a lot of english writing on the store fronts and we are turned off because we don´t think it´s authentic enough.... Pretty silly. Today was also the first time we got ripped off. We changed some money at the boarder with one of these money changer guys and apparently he gave us some fake bills. We´ve been using these types of guys the whole way down since Mexico and haven´t had any problems. We usually only have a small amount of cash on us by the time we get to the boarder anyways. We got taken for about 30 bucks not the end of the world, but it doesn´t leave you with a very nice feeling. The guy at the hotel said if we take the counterfeit notes to the national bank when we are in Lima they will change them out for us. We´ll see I´m not holding my breath. Seems like a lot of people would be getting free money if that was the case.
A general comment about the weather, in the afternoons we got rained on just about everyday while in Colombia and Ecuador. Now that we are closer to the cost in Peru I have a feeling that will stop. But it is really remarkable the effect that the weather has on you while riding a motorcycle. I mean Clay and I both have waterproof riding suits and we both stay, for the most part, dry while it is raining. Nonetheless riding in the rain is somewhat depressing and stressful. You are consistently wiping your face shield clean and trying not to breath too heavy so as not to fog the inside of the face shield. You have to watch your braking and lean angle because of the slippery surface and you are consistently worried about laying the thing down. All of this just makes you tired very quickly and makes you want to get off that damn bike (that said we have both become much better wet weather riders). But as soon as you ride out of the rain and the sun is shining and the pavement is dry, it does not matter how tired you were before you just feel completely energized and happy again and all the worries you had before are not even a memory. The sun has this amazing ability to make you feel wonderful. Like a good friend of mine says you need to get outside in that sunshie and recharge those solar panels.
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Why you have to visit Colombia...plus some shots from Ecuador!
- The People: Kindest people as a group we´ve come across on our Slingshot South. More than anywhere else, it seemed that most people were happy to have us there as tourists. Kind of like, "Wait, you´ve come to visit Colombia? But hasn´t everyone back home told you how dangerous it is here? Well I´m glad you didn´t listen to it. Happy to have you here!" The women are beautiful if that´s what you´re into, and most of the men know how to dance a mean Salsa for you ladies out there. Everyone in Colombia also has more of a "can do" attitude and all seem to be busy with their own things, where as in other Central American countries we visited we were targeted much more by beggars, con-artists, etc.
- The Cities: Cartagena, Medellin, and Cali were the 3 major cities we visited. They each have a completely different vibe and each is pretty amazing in it´s own right, not to mention the smaller towns in between we rode through were full of culture as well.
- The Scenery: The entire country is loaded with crazy scenery, including mountains, rivers, lakes, beaches and whatever else you might be into. Colombia has the best motorcycle roads as a whole of anywhere I´ve ever seen. Everyday we rode in Colombia was the best day I´ve had riding. Plus there´s a huge motorcycle culture down here. My ideal trip through Colombia would probably be about 3-4 weeks long on a nice motorcycle to explore all the parts of the place.
Ok, enough of that. Now we´re in the town of Cuenca, Ecuador after spending a night in Quito 2 nights ago. I´m going to post some captions on all of the pictures below, but there´s a big footie game starting right now between Ecuador and Brazil and the town of Cuenca is going crazy. Gotta go find a good spot to watch it. I´ll finish this up tomorrow!!!
This shot was taken while we were still in Colombia on one of the epic roads winding through the country South of Cali. Of course I had to stick that big ugly retro green bike in the shot. I´m starting to become pretty attached to that thing, it´s taken me pretty far and all the while I´ve beaten it up pretty bad. Still going strong somehow...it´s a strange love affair we have going on, I beat the hell out of it and it keeps coming back for more.Another view shot from Colombia. I´ve got so many of these now, hard to pick one. The country is covered in pretty extreme mountainous terrain. They basically carve their highways into the sides of the cliffs, which makes for an incredible view coming around every turn.
Colombia has gotten a ton safer in the past 10 years as the conservative based government has done a pretty great job in quelling much of the FARC (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) activity. That´s not to say they´re not still out there. According to the Colombian government, as of 2008, FARC have an estimated 6,000-10,000 members, down from 16,000 in 2001, having lost about half their fighting force after President Alvaro Uribe took office in 2002. The FARC´s largest concentrations have been pushed back into the southeastern parts of Colombia's jungle and in the plains at the base of the Andean mountains. The sign in the photo above was posted at the border, offering huge rewards for turning in any of these bad muthas.
This is our hotel we stayed at last night in Cuenca, Ecuador. We were having a hell of a time finding a place that had secure parking for the bikes, but we finally found the Hostal Posada del Angel. They literally had us wheel the bikes into the restaraunt eating area. Once again we were hesitant but they insisted it wasn´t the first time and were more than happy park them there.
Here´s a shot from the Old Town square in Cuenca. The town square is a resounding theme in many of the Latin American cities we´ve been to. It´s a very safe bet that every town will have 3 things: a town square, and Catholic Church, and a soccer field.
That´s all for now. We are starting to run a little low on time for our over all trip, which unfortunately means we will have to fly through some of the areas which I would have otherwise loved to spend more time. Okay I´m bending the truth a little. The real reason I have start putting on the miles is that I´ve got a date with this hot chick in Chile in 3 weeks that I would be crazy to miss. The word is that Kyle´s got a visitor as well. Time to start riding....til next time.
Clay
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Today in Medellin
Story telling aside. I picked up my bike this afternoon and it seems to run fine. CoCo gave the motorcycle a different dignosis. He changed the sparkplug, drained the fuel and cleaned the airfilter. Seems I had some contaminated gas. Probably water got into the tank from the boat ride. Seems logical. I will accept this explanation until the next time my bike decides not to cooperate.
A quick note on Medellin. COME HERE! this city is amazing. We have only nicked the surface but everything we have seen is amazing. The Zona Rosa is several square blocks of resturants, bars and night clubs near a park. The whole area buzzes with life after the sun goes down. There is also a great motorcycle culture here. There are little shops all over that sell bikes and do repairs and sell accessories. Really hip stuff. If there was snow here (I mean for skiing you sickos not the other kind of snow) I would move here in a hot second.
Cheers big ears.
Monday, March 23, 2009
An Insider´s Bike Tour outside Medellin and The Rock of El Penol
So we were hoping to get the bikes into the Kawi dealership today but it turns out that it´s some huge Colombian Holiday and everything is shut down....figures. But this didn´t matter because the motorcycles decided to start up perfectly this morning and run like the gems they once were all day long. A while back Kyle had made a contact with a Scottish guy named Al who lives here in Medellin through the ADV aka Adventure Rider´s forum. Al offered to meet up with us and take us on a motorcycle tour around the area. Al is a recently transplanted Colombian and moved here from Ecuador where he owns 2 bars and spent the last 10 years. He´s currently working on opening a third pub-style bar here in Medellin called the Barking Spider, haha. Anyways, he rides a big KTM 950 Adventure and took us on an amazing tour today that we never would have been able to experience if it wasn´t for him. The final destination of this tour was El Penol.....see the shots below. And thanks a lot Al!
There´s a 360 degree view from the top of the El Penol, pretty breathtaking. Here´s a shot of the lakes that surround the area. There´s a lot of nice houses and boats on the lake.
Just a short post today, if the bikes are running fine tomorrow we head out from Medelling. If not there will definitely be a trip to the dealer in the works. Stay tuned....and thanks for following of course!
Sunday, March 22, 2009
Mud Volcanoes, Bike Problems and the Stunning Country that is Colombia
First some fun before we get into the bike problems. Before we left Cartagena I joined our group of friends from the boat for a trip out to Volcan de Lodo El Totumo. It´s a naturally occurring mud volcano that is shaped like a large molehill and spews a lukewarm mud that has the viscosity of a thick cream. They´ve built stairways up to the top and you can take dip in the mud. This was definitely one one the coolest experiences I´ve had yet on the trip. The mud is so thick that it basically supports your entire bodyweight and suspends you in any position that you choose. Pretty crazy sensation. Not to mention its great for your skin, or so they say...
After we got out the local villagers took us down to the lagoon you see in the background. These women literally lead you by hand in to the water and start bathing you in the water to get the mud off. They scrub your hair, ears and whatever other bodypart may be hiding mud. They even told us guys to take our shorts off in the water, we did the scrubbing ourselves for that part of course... By the way the guy standing to the right of me in the picture below wasn´t in our group. He was wearing a pretty sweet thong though as you can see. Can´t tell if that´s a sock or he´s just happy to see me....Oh man that´s wrong, I know it, but just can´t help it :)
Now for the bike problems. After spending the majority of the second day in Cartagena at the Vehicle Import office to get our paperwork taken care of, we found a great local bike shop and the fun began. As you see in the picture above, this is the first of four times in the last six days Kyle´s bike has been in pieces. The guys at the shop were awesome though, and we left thinking the problems had been fixed. They also changed our oil, washed our bikes, scrubbed the rust from the saltwater of of all surfaces of the bikes. We hung out with them for a while and had a great time. One of the countless times in Columbia that we found the people to be more than friendly.
While Kyle´s bike was being worked on inside this guy did a great job of washing my bike. It was covered in saltwater before this and looked brand new afterwards.
This would be round two for taking Kyle´s bike apart. We were pulled over at a gas station with the bike in pieces when this big group of riders, the Moto Club of Medellin, pulled over to offer their services. We tried diagnosing the problem in several ways. It seemed the spark plug wasn´t firing so we pulled the plug and tested it. I think we´ve finally nailed it down to an electrical problem with the wirning to the spark plug. It´s really weird though because it seems like the bike works fine when it´s dry and hot, but completely shuts down when it hits any water.
The riders´ group was so awesome. They used all their contacts to find us a good mechanic in the small little town nearby and also gave us the name of the best Kawasaki mechanic here in Medellin. Another example of the genuine nature of most all Colombians we´ve met thus far. We hooked up our tow strap to Kyle´s bike and I towed him into the local town to find the mechanice. The Moto Club was even kind enough to go completely out of their way and give us a 6 bike escort the 15 miles back into town while we were towing.
Here´s round three. This guy got the bike running but we´re not sure he fixed the root of the problem. Our goal was to just make it to Medellin to find the Kawasaki dealership.
Round 4 of the dismantling this morning in the parking garage of the hotel.
Here´s Kyle after we loaded up the bike into the back of this pickup. This guy drove the bike the remaining 70 miles into Medellin. It was a pretty incredible ride for me at least down the mountaing with a bunch of awesome twisties and amazing scenery. Medelling is set in a valley right between a couple of large mountain ranges. Yes, its true that Medellin was once the Cocaine capital of the world, but it seems to have a much different feel these days. It has a bustling city center with large skyrises as well as beautifully maintained neighborhoods on the outskirts of town where we are staying. We found a great little hostel called the Casa Kiwi and are going in search of this renowned mechanic tomorrow. We´ll keep you updated....
Thursday, March 19, 2009
Colombia is awesome
After leaving Panama city early (kind of but not too early) we road out to a town called El Llano which is North East of Panama city and is toward the Carribean coast. But Just before we arrived in El Llano we were stopped by huge amounts of cars and trucks that were parked in the road. As we weaved our bikes between the traffic or more like a parking lot we arrived at the scene of the crime... a protest in the country. There has been disputes in rural Panama between titled land owners and the local governments about using the land for tourism development. In this case the rightful owners have had their land taken away by the local government so they could widen the road and build hotels. Kind of sad. Anyways somebody had the smart idea to send an ambulance through the protesters road block and once the protesters let that ambulance go through it was a free for all and vehicles just started shooting the gap. After that little hold up we were on our way down the dirt road and over the river crossing (clay posted pics earlier) to the San Blas Islands. We loaded up the bikes on to Fritz The Cat and we were off. We spent 3 days and 2 nights kind of cruising through the islands getting drunk, swimming and throwing ourselves off the sail boat in any possible retarted way we could think of. After San Blas the true adventure begins. the 200 nautical mile journey almost perfectly east from Panama to Cartagena, Colombia.
Sailing on the open ocean for almost 36 straight hours was pretty exciting. The intial bit of water was covered during the night. We set sail after dark and Fritz was able to use the boats GPS, radar and autopilot systems to navigate the islands and reach the open water. From there our course was pretty much fixed at 75 degrees which is just lightly north of east until we arrived in Cartagena, but it varied between 70 and 90 degrees based on wind conditions. Our speed varied between 4 and 7 nmph which i don't think is very fast for a boat like this but with winds coming from the north that was about as fast as we could comfortably go. Fritz also aided our sail power with some motor which helped keep the boat from drifting as a result of our relatively upwind course. During the 2nd night at sea the conditions became somewhat entensified (sp?) when the wind reached speeds of 25 to 30 knots and the swells increased to 12 ft. We had water coming over the boat for sure. The bikes had a nice salt water bath to be sure.
But not to be outdone fritz was unfazed and sailed us into the Port of Cartagena with Dophins in toe right on schedule.
Cartagena is a beautiful and romantic city, or so says Lonely Planet.... not sure what makes a place romantic.... but without a doubt it is beautiful. We will post pics as evidence soon. I took a bike ride to discover the city with my new friends Matt, Paul and Brice.
Yesterday after doing our vehicle import stuff, we set out to find a motorcycle shop, and we did find a great one, and for 20 bucks clay and I got our bikes washed, our oil changed, our chains cleaned and our disk brakes polished (because of salt water rust) and we made friends with the guys at the shop as well. They invited us to go for a ride with them tonight and promised us to show us the real Cartagena. We are definitly going to take them up on the offer. I'm having kind of a lazy day today, just crusing the web and walking around town eating and drinking as I please. The others went to a mud volcano, can't wait to hear the stories, but it was a little hot today to be playing around in the mud for me.
Colombia in general is impressive, at least what I have seen so far. The country is nicely developed in its own way, and that is to say mostly without American influence. The people here are happy and genuine and they our into their own lives which is refreshing coming from Central America where the street people would nag you and beg you. Here you are not bothered and the feeling as you walk down the street is fantistic, especially when I think to myself "I'm in Colombia right now, Cool!"
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
An Amazing Ride on the Cat and Cartagena
Oh man loading the bikes o the boat was quite an experience. The Captain Fritz was super confident though and everything worked out well. Fritz sure knows how to tie a knot. He used his boom to lift the bikes and sit them on the deck.
You can see the port of Cartagena in the background. A lot of big buildings and construction going on there.